As a newly arrived expat in Singapore, you’ll most probably have heard people telling you that you absolutely should put Holland Village on your must-see list.
Why? It’s known to be the quintessential expatriate neighbourhood in Singapore, for its diverse and international mix of shops, bars, and eateries. Not to mention, its refreshing laid-back vibe, reminiscent of a slower pace of life back home.
Is Holland Village really the best expat neighbourhood to be in, though? Or is it just another expat trap that makes you think that you’re living your best life in Singapore when you’re really in your own little expat bubble?
Don’t worry, we’ll tell you all you need to know about enjoying Holland Village and all it has to offer like a local. Navigate our guide to find out if this neighbourhood is for you.
Expats tend to love Holland Village, but so do the locals. What’s so fabulous about this small, crescent-shaped neighbourhood with only two small roads running through its heart, known fondly in Singapore as “Holland V”?
Turns out that both expats and locals love the same things about Holland Village. Its eclectic mix of shops and F&B outlets feel both openly international and distinctively local at the same time. It also has a vibey nightlife scene and laidback charm that is reminiscent of a decidedly slower pace of life back home.
The opening of a Western-style supermarket, coffee joints, and international schools nearby cemented Holland Village’s status as the neighbourhood of choice for expats from all over—a reputation which has lasted till today.
First things first, understanding how Holland V got its name. And no, it wasn’t a particularly large arrival of people from Holland that did it.
Originally known colloquially in the Hokkien dialect as hue hng au (“behind the flower garden”) due to its close location to the Singapore Botanic Gardens, the neighbourhood was officially christened “Holland Village” in 1929 by the Rural Board, after one Hugh Holland, who was a resident of the estate.
In the 1800s, the neighbourhood was a rubber and gambier plantation, tropical crops that were particularly high in demand in Britain. By the 1930s, Holland Village was eventually turned into a British military village to provide housing for high-ranking officers in the British Army and their families.
As more British military personnel and their families moved into the estate, more shops and eateries opened their doors there to cater to their needs. This set the tone for Holland Village’s development as an expat enclave, as it became well-known for speciality shops among the larger expatriate community living around the area in nearby neighbourhoods like Pasir Panjang, Alexandra, and Tanglin.
Holland Village continued to develop in this vein throughout the 1960s, with more businesses such as pubs, tailors, and curio shops, catering specifically to its uniquely European and Western clientele. Chip Bee Gardens, a private estate within the bounds of the Holland Village neighbourhood, was also further developed for residential housing for the British.
The neighbouring estates of Buona Vista and Commonwealth were simultaneously developed between the 1960s and 1970s, as government flats known as HDB flats were built on a large scale for the local population.
As the local Singapore residents moved into the Buona Vista and Commonwealth HDB estates, some businesses catering more to the locals started springing up in Holland Village too, including a wet market, hawker centre, sundry stores, and even a large open-air cinema by Eng Wah that screened many kungfu and fighting movies in Chinese.
Holland Village Shopping Centre houses the first Western-style supermarket Fitzpatricks (now known as Cold Storage). The first Western-style coffee joint, Jumbo Coffee, was also opened in 1971—to the delight of expats and locals alike.
When the British military withdrew for good in the 1970s, Holland Village remained bustling and lively to this day.
In fact, with many upscale international restaurants, trendy F&B chains (Burger King and TCC had both opened their very first outlets in Singapore in Holland V), and speciality fusion cuisine eateries opening in Holland Village, it became fondly known as a “mini Orchard Road” in the 1980s. This comparison against Singapore’s prime shopping district in town, Orchard Road was a huge mark of approval for Holland Village, recognising its “it” status among the cool and trendy crowd.
During the 1990s, Holland Village retained its reputation as the leisure destination of choice. Lorong Liput, one of the two roads running through the neighbourhood, was closed to traffic at night to facilitate a relaxed vibe for pedestrians to stroll unhindered after dinner and drinks. Live bands would play at pubs along this stretch, and many restaurants set up tables along the closed road for diners to dine alfresco under the stars.
Today, the landscape of Holland Village has changed quite significantly.
The opening of the Holland Village Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) station, two new malls and several HDB residential blocks in the vicinity have collectively made the neighbourhood more accessible. With that being said, old-timers of the hood miss its distinctive features like the open-air carpark and the closure of several beloved names that have become associated with all that Holland Village stood for.
Nonetheless, the soul of Holland Village remains the cradle of lifestyle trends in buzzing, cosmopolitan Singapore. It retains its top-end restaurants, eateries, and bars among the narrow shophouses of Lorong Mambong, many of which are fully booked come the weekend.
Holland Village is still one of the trendiest spots to hit here in Singapore, even though it’s changed so much over the years. This beautiful, leafy estate with its eclectic mix of trendy shops and eateries is best enjoyed over a lazy weekend when you have all the time in the world to soak up the special charm of this neighbourhood.
Bookmark this guide for an up-to-date guide on what you can do this weekend at Holland V.
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Opened by award-winning pastry chef Janice Wong, 2am : Dessertbar is a dessert bar like no other. Serving up delectable desserts that look almost too beautiful to eat with recommended drink pairings, this bar has been a huge hit with patrons ever since it opened at Holland V in 2007. As an even bigger treat, pop over for supper to scratch that sweet tooth before bed—it opens till late (2 am to be precise, as its name suggests).
While exploring Raffles Holland V, one of the newest malls in the hood, take a breather from your mall crawling and check out Da Paolo Gastromania, tucked away at the corner of the mall. A restaurant renowned for its authentic Italian fare and cosy interior, this one at Holland Village is particularly beautiful, with ground-to-ceiling windows, and a Tuscan-inspired courtyard complete with an olive tree. The classic bistro and cafe menu is one that even Italians continue to love over the years, so you’ll definitely not be disappointed if you’re craving some comforting Italian food.
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For a taste of nostalgic, hearty Italian fare, La Nonna is the place to get it. As its name suggests, grandmothers do hold the secret to decades of delicious food. La Nonna is a long-standing institution in Holland V, having opened its doors in Jalan Mambong in 2006. Its extremely loyal fan base loves the restaurant’s wood-fired pizzas, silky linguine, and hearty calzone, and keeps coming back for a comforting taste of La Nonna’s long after they’ve moved out from the hood.
Arguably serving up some of the best Mexican food in town with a really rad ambience, Chimichanga is an excellent spot for some Friday drinks to wash it all down. Tuck into yummy deep-fried chimichangas, tacos, burrito bowls, and burgers in this outdoor-seating-only joint, taking in the sights and sounds of Holland V from the sidewalk.
Psst, the extensive drinks menu comprising both non-alcoholic fruit mixers and alcoholic cocktails and spirits are a draw in its own right. Chimichanga also welcomes your furkids and even hosts pop-up events for the doggies on some weekends at their monthly Doggy Days Out.
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Japanese fine dining meets contemporary in a casual setting. You’ll enjoy every bite of your meal at this cosy bistro that is housed on the third floor of the One Holland Village Mall. Choose from a menu of traditional Japanese favourites and modern fusion dishes, such as premium appetiser bowls filled with fresh uni, scallop, or sashimi, which can be enjoyed alongside tender char siew or seared foie gras and have them with crispy claypot rice, rich beef fat rice, or even tacos as a base.
Fun fact: Ginkyō by Kinki is the sister restaurant to the high-end Kinki restaurant that overlooks Marina Bay known for its eclectic take on Japanese fine dining that is at once multisensory and futuristic.
Everyone who’s been a teenager or young adult in the late 1990s and 2000s will know about the long-standing watering hole in Holland Village with its live band Wala Wala. While the COVID pandemic has shuttered its live gig space, the bar is still alive and well with its signature beer and spirits menu—draught beers on tap, whiskeys, cocktails, wines, soju, and sake. The best part? Their daily Happy Hour deals on beers, Monday to Sunday, rain or shine.
You’ll need to keep your eyes peeled
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for the signs leading up to Frankie & Fern’s, a new cafe on the rooftop of Holland Village Shopping Centre, but it’s well worth the effort to find it.
Pro tip: look out for the elevator tucked next to UOB Bank and a money changer.
Frankie & Fern's is oh-so-cosy and serves up an extensive menu that changes from brunch to lunch, to dinner, from weekdays to weekends. It's really family-friendly, providing a nursing room and play area for mums and your little ones. The cafe is pretty well-known among the cafe crowd, so you’ll want to make a reservation even on weekdays, to avoid being disappointed.
It doesn’t get more authentically local than the wares at Independent Market. Stocked with unique gifts, home decor, lifestyle, and craft items all proudly designed and produced by local business owners, you’ll want to come here for a decidedly local touch for your new home in Singapore. Grab an adorable kueh or merlion plushies for your couch, some prints reminding you of how to order your local kopi in their dizzying variations, or even local-themed board and card games for your next Friday night with friends.
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Batik, a traditional printed Indonesian fabric, is available in swathes and swathes of its full, gorgeous glory at Wellie Batik. People from all around the world have stopped by this iconic shop in Holland V, which was opened 40 years ago by 98-year-old Ang Kum Siong, known affectionately to long-time customers as Uncle Wellie. Now, the shop is helmed by his son, Eric. The wide selection of batik is proudly sourced from Central Java and can be turned into custom-made shirts for men. Women can buy dresses, skirts, and tops off-the-rack at the shop available in a wide variety of vibrant batik materials.
Angie is a veritable celebrity framer and renowned for her amazing work with frames; if you need anything framed in your home, Angie will do it with finesse and heart for you. Paintings, photographs, ornaments, clothing, shoes, and even swords and artefacts – she frames them all. Her fans come from near and far for her professional framing service, some even from overseas who’ve caught wind of her framing prowess. Framing Angie is located in the same place it’s always been since the beginning, at the nostalgic Holland Village Shopping Centre.
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One of Singapore’s most established fashion designers, Priscilla Shunmugam, has made a beautiful light-filled space in Chip Bee Gardens, the flagship store of her eponymous brand, Ong Shunmugam. As a nod to her Indian-Chinese heritage, her designs incorporate cheongsam silhouettes with Indian and other Asian influences, resulting in a truly one-of-a-kind piece for the cosmopolitan modern woman. Many of the brand’s ready-to-wear pieces which can be purchased off-the-rack are made in-house at the store, which is by appointment only. Bespoke creations are also available on enquiry.
Pop into Suterwala’s for beautiful, high-end tableware and homeware for your new local home. You’ll find tableware and homeware from all over the world here, crafted from various materials from ceramic and stone, to fine porcelain, mango wood, and even gold. Many of the designs are nature and culture-inspired, which makes these especially fitting for living in the tropics here in Singapore.
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With multiple outlets all across the island, Natureland is a well-known massage and wellness spa chain in Singapore with a much-deserved reputation for relaxing massages and amazing service. One of the best treatments to get here is the food reflexology, which promises minimally 60 minutes of rejuvenating bliss. Feel the stresses of your day melt away in the tranquil, cool, and darkened therapy rooms of Natureland – it’s truly a treat for the senses. Make a booking because the place can get pretty packed after work hours and on weekends.
If you want to try classes on the barre, check out the WeBarre studio in Holland Village. Here you can work out a combination of yoga, pilates and ballet moves. Its graceful moves belie great strength training, with movements tailored to tone those muscles and get your heart pumping. The studio at Holland Village is full of natural light, which is a huge plus point and an endorphin booster too.
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If boutique fitness spaces are your thing, you’ll want to check out Axiom in Holland Village. Offering small group strength and endurance training and personal training services, you’ll be sure to pack on the endorphins and muscles among a close community of like-minded folks here.
With a name that means “sacred body” in Greek, you know Ilies Soma Pilates Studio is the place to help you achieve the body and fitness you want. Equipped with state-of-the-art Gyrotonic equipment and taught by dedicated instructors, you’ll be able to stretch and move to your heart’s content at every class you attend at this premium Pilates studio.
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This integrative health centre is your one-stop place for all your holistic health needs, which looks at the health of your body, mind, and spirit. Overall wellness is the goal of the team of integrative medicine practitioners at Samatasoul, who work with conventional lab tests as well as alternative treatment methods like psychotherapy, pranic healing, aromatherapy, and integrative nutrition.
Hopping on an MRT train on the Circle Line and getting off at Holland Village Station (CC21) will take you right to the doorstep of your favourite trendy restaurants, shops, and studios in the neighbourhood.
If you’re travelling on the East-West Line, Buona Vista Station (EW21) will also take you near enough – it’s a pleasant 18-minute walk to Holland V which will take you through some really local HDB shops and coffee shops where you can stop for an iced kopi or Milo.
Bus numbers 7, 61, 75, 77, 165, and 170 will take you to the bus stop along Holland Road. While, bus numbers 48, 61, 106, and 970 will take you to the bus stop at Holland Village MRT Station along Holland Avenue.
If you like Holland Village so much that you want to live there and count it as your own neighbourhood, you’re in luck. There are quite a few housing options around the area now, thanks to the new HDB residential estates built in the last few years.
If you’ve got school-aged children, you’ll be happy to know that you’ve got plenty of choices.
International schools are aplenty in the nearby Tanglin (Invictus International School) and Dover (Dover Court International School, United World College Southeast Asia) neighbourhoods and there’s even ACS International a mere stone’s throw away.
There are also a couple of government schools located relatively nearby:
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